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Rob's "Wine of the Week" Archives

So here is my wine review for the week of February 5th...

CAYMUS CABERNET 2004

Description: The jury is still out on the Napa 2004 reds, as they are only now beginning to be released. Caymus remains one of the true Cadillacs of Napa reds and is usually a good indication of the overall quality of a year in terms of upper-end varietals and vintners. Don't be confused, by the way; I am reviewing the basic Cab here, not their annual "special selection" which is twice the cost and is almost always one of the five best reds of the years to come out of Napa. I have found that their basic Cab is far more reliable indicator of the overall lot of good reds available from Napa in any given year.

How to Get it: Any wine store worth it's reputation makes sure to have Caymus on hand, as does Bevmo and even most grocery stores who offer high end wine selections. The wine is also available through many on-line merchants and the winery itself in Napa.

How Much: About $70.

My Thoughts: While we all await the full depth and scope of the 2004 vintage one thing seems to be emerging as a trend with all of the bottles I have tasted from Napa; the wines are tight, big, tannic and need time and breathing room. Even the Pride Merlot, a big merlot to be sure but still just a merlot, needed some air and opening before it could be appreciated. This Caymus is no different. At first taste, the tannins are extremely tight, almost akin to smoking a wet cigar. Underneath it all and 2 hours after opening the bottle, the outstanding flavors of vanilla and herbs come through. There are also some earthy notes that I expect will diminish with time.

Always committed to doing whatever it takes to give you the best direction possible, I made the supreme sacrifice and compared this 2004 with a bottle of Caymus 2000 from my cellar. The difference was a fascinating education in proper aging. Four years after a similarly tight vintage the 2000 now drinks smooth and silky right after opening and turns into a big, smooth, complex cab an hour later. I expect the same from the 2004, with time
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Overall Score: At $70, this is not a wine you buy, open and serve today. If you must drink it now, decant it and let it breath for a few hours, but know that you'll be getting a 3 ½ vine wine today, and a much better wine if you can patient. I'd recommend buying half a case and shoving them away. In a year, 3 5, and 10 years from now this will be an excellent red, well worth the price tag for big Cab lovers. 4 ½ vines.


Caymus Cabernet 2004
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ROB ARNIE & DAWN